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Hydra
(Area 50 sq. km, length of coastline 56 km).
Hydra differs from the other islands in the Saronic Gulf on account of its
rocky, barren terrain and its characteristic architecture which is perfectly
attuned to the austere natural environment. These endow it with a special
charm that together with its cosmopolitan ambience, high standard of
accommodation, luxury shops, art galleries, restaurants, night life and
opportunities for sea sports have enhanced it as one of the most popular
tourist destinations in Greece. Excavations have revealed the existence of a
Mycenaean settlement to the west of the present town. The island flourished
during the Byzantine Age the finds from the area of Episkopi – at that time
its capital – on the west coast attest. During the Ottoman period the
Hydriotes had secured a system of local self-government and many privileges,
and so managed to create a powerful mercantile fleet. With the declaration
of the War of Independence in 1821 the captains put their vessels in the
service of the Struggle and fought valiantly. Hydra, the island’s capital
and port, a unique combination of architecture and landscape, makes a
lasting impression. The stone-built captains’ mansions, two- and three-storey
high with tiled roofs, are built amphitheatrically on the two bare hills
overlooking the harbor. In most of these residences, restored and renovated
inside and out, the authentic interiors and antique furniture are preserved.
Among the most important mansions are the Tombazis – which houses the
annexed of the School of Fine Arts – the Kountouriotis, the Voudouris, the Miaoulis,
the Voulgaris, the Kriezis – now the Home for the Elderly – and the Tsamados
– the Merchant Marine School. Places of interest include the old harbour
with the battlements and cannon, the Koimesis tis Theotokou Monastery, built
to the plans of Venetian and Genoese architects in the 17th century, and the
churches of Hypapanti and Aghios loannis tou Nistevti with notable
wall-paintings. At the summit of the hill, with a panoramic view over the
town and the harbor, are the twin monasteries of Aghia Eupraxia and
Profitis Ilias. The Historical Archive-Museum houses a wealth of material on
the island’s history as well as a significant library. To the NE of the town
is Mandraki, and on a hilltop a short distance from there is the Aghia
Triada Monastery. At the NE edge of the island is the Zourvas Monastery,
dedicated to the Dormition of the Virgin, and to the S is the Monastery of
Aghia Matrona. The coasts of Hydra are rocky and sheer. There is an
organized beach at Mandraki, which can be reached by sea-taxi or on foot
from the town. Other beaches ideal for swimming, at Kaminia, Vlycho, Molo,
Bisti, Limnioniza and Aghios Nikolaos, can all be reached by sea-taxi.
Between Hydra and the coast of the Peloponnese lies the islet of Dokos.
Easter is celebrated on Hydra with special customs. At Kaminia on Good
Friday the Epitaphios procession continues down to the water’s edge, while
on Easter Sunday an effigy of Judas is burnt. In June the “Miaoulia” is
celebrated. The high spot is a re-enactment of the Hydriote Admiral Miaoulis
setting fire to the flagship of the Ottoman fleet. Among the island’s
advantages is the prohibition of motor vehicles. Several excursions can be
made by donkey. Hydra is renowned for its delicious almond cakes. |
Spetses
(Area 22 sq. km, length of coastline 25 km).
Situated at the entrance to the Argolic Gulf, opposite Kosta, Hermionida,
from which it is separated by a narrow channel 1.3 nautical miles wide,
Spetses is the southern most island of the group. It has been inhabited
since the Early Bronze Age (2500-2000 BC), as attested by the remnants of
defensive walls, figurines and clay vessels found at Aghia Marina. During
the Ottoman period the Spetsiotes built up an important fleet and were
protagonists with their neighbors in Hydra in the Greek War of
Independence. The attractive town of Spetses is one of the most elegant and
dignified island capitals. It has an ambience of the “good old days”, which
is created by the Neoclassical houses and is enhanced by the absence of
motor vehicles and the circulation of horse-drawn carriages. The heart of
the small town is the historical Dapia Square with the cannon, emplacement
that brings to mind the struggles against the Ottoman Turks. Here, around
the picturesque harbour, are the old coffees hops, many restaurants,
patisseries, shops etc. To the left of Dapia, in the direction of the old
harbor, are numerous Neoclassical houses and the metropolis (Greek Orthodox
cathedral) of Aghios Nikolaos. Standing in a lovely setting, the church was
once the catholicon of a monastery. There are quaint shipyards beside the
old harbor and beyond these is the chapel of the PanAghia tis Armatas.
Built on a densely wooded hill with a wonderful view over the whole town, it
commemorates the Spetsiotes’ victory in September 1822. A short distance
away is the lighthouse. To the right of Dapia Square is the imposing
building of the old Poseidonion Hotel and a monument dedicated to Bouboulina,
the most important woman protagonist in the Struggle of 1821. Further on, in
the area of Kounoupitsa, are the impressive premises of the
Anargyrion-Koryalenion School, founded in 1927. Mansions worth visiting in
the town are those of Bouboulina, Botasis and Chatziyannis Mexis. The last
now houses a museum of memorabilia of the 1821 War of Independence, archival
and folklore material, paintings etc. (tel. (22980) 72.994). At the highest
point in the town is the Holy Trinity church, built in 1793. On the west
coast, near Aghioi Anargyroi, is the Bekiris cave in which the 1821 freedom
fighters sought refuge. All the island’s beaches can be reached by bus or
cacique: Aghioi Anargyroi, Aghia Paraskevi, Zogeria, Vrellas, Aghia Marina,
Xylokeriza. Spetses has an excellent tourist infrastructure and there are
plenty of hotels, pensions, entertainment centers, restaurants etc. There
are ample opportunities for sea sports and many night spots. The annual
festival, the “Anargyria”, is held in August. In mid-September there is a
reenactment of the naval battle of the Armada, which sets off from the
chapel of the PanAghia tis Armatas, near the lighthouse of the old harbor.
The events include athletics contests and folk dancing. To the SE of Spetses
lies the privately-owned, verdant islet of Spetsopoula. Spetses is an ideal
base for making excursions to Kosta, Porto Cheli, Kranidi, Nafplion and the
archaeological sites of the Argolid opposite. In the summer there are
theatrical performances in the ancient theatre of Epidaurus. There are fuel
and water supply facilities for private vessels in the harbor of Spetses. |
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Aegina
Introduction (Area 84 sq km , length of coastline 57 km). During the 6th
century BC Aegina built up a large commercial fleet and emerged as an
important naval power. At this time too local potters were producing the
well-known Aeginetan clay vases. Fine arts flourished on Aegina in antiquity
and the Aeginetan sculpture workshop, which had its heyday in the 6th and
5th centuries BC, was renowned. On account of its navy, Aegina played an
important role in the Persian Wars. It was captured by the Ottomans in 1718.
After the Liberation, the first government of the newly founded Greek state
was installed in Aegina in 1828. Aegina, the island’s capital and port, is
an attractive town with colorful Neoclassical houses. Interesting sights
are the quaint chapel of Aghios Nikolaos by the water’s edge, the metropolis
of Aghios Demetrios (Greek Orthodox cathedral) where the first government of
Modern Greece was sworn in, the Government House (Kyverneion) of
Capodistrias, now the premises of a notable library. On the picturesque
Kolona hillock near the harbour, stands a solitary Doric column, the sole
remnant of the temple of Apollo which stood there in the 6th century BC. The
Aegina Archaeological Museum (tel. (22970) 22.637) houses significant finds
from the area. On a hill 4 km from Aghia Marina, is the island’s most
important archaeological site, the temple of the ancient goddess Aphaia,
patron deity of Aegina. Peripteral and in the Doric order, traces of the
previous temple can be seen in its foundations.
Twenty-four of the 34 columns of the epistyle, part of the restored
entablature and two columns from the promos have survived. Remains of the
prophylaxis, an altar and priests apartments are also preserved. Aphaia, a
deity little known to the Greeks, was replaced by Athena in order to boost
their morale in the Trojan War, which is why this monument is alternatively
known as the temple of Aphaia Athena. The Monastery of the Virgin
Phaneromeni is quite close to the town. North of the town are the seaside
resorts of Plakakia, Leonti, Souvala and Vaia, with accommodation for
holidaymakers, restaurants, tavernas, bars and other amenities. At Souvala
there are therapeutic springs. The road along the island’s N coast ends at
Tourlos. Six km NE of Aegina is Palaiochora, the island’s capital from the
9th to the 19th century, with a medieval castle and many interesting
churches. Not far away is the convent of Aghios Nektarios. Information, tel.
(22970) 53.800, (22970) 53.806. The interesting architecture of the
Monastery of the Virgin Chrysoleontissa, founded in 1600 in the heart of the
island, is reminiscent of the fortified monasteries on Mount Athos. The
medieval village of Mesagros, 9 km NE of Aegina, B with its long tradition
in pottery-making, offers a superb view of the Aphaia temple. To the S is
Aghia Marina (13 km from Aegina) , the island’s most popular seaside resort,
set in the midst of pine woods. The road along the coast S of Aegina passes
through Faros, Paliopyrgos, Marathonas, Aiginitissa and Profitis Ilias. It
ends at the pretty fishing village of Perdika, with the thickly wooded islet
of Moni 3 km offshore. There are frequent boat services between Perdika and
Moni in the summer months. There are mooring facilities for private craft in
the harbour at Aegina. Information from the Harbour Office, tel. (22970)
22.328. The island’s characteristic products include pistachio nuts and
local pottery. |
Poros
(Area 33 sq. km, length of coastline 43 km). A narrow channel separates the
island from Galata on the opposite Peloponnesian coast of Troizinia (anc.
Troezen). Myth has it that this richly verdant island was the birthplace of
Theseus. In the 7th century BC Poros, then called Kalaureia, was the seat of
an amphictyony of seven cities. During the Greek War of Independence (1821)
the inhabitants of Poros joined forces with those of Spetses and Hydra,
putting their ships in the service of the Struggle. The delightful little
town of Poros is the island’s capital and port. To the east of the harbor
is the richly wooded islet of Bourtzi with a small castle built for its
protection in 1827. Housed in the Poros Archaeological Museum, tel. (22980)
23.276, are important finds from the island and ancient Troezen. Some 5 km
NE of the town are the remains of the sanctuary of Poseidon, with a 6th
century BC temple in the Doric order. The area is called Palatia by the
locals and has a stunning view. Near the harbor, on the S coast of Poros, is
enchanting Askeli with superb sea and dense pine woods. On an eminence
beside the shore is the Zoodochos Pigi Kalavrias Monastery. Three km NW of
Poros are Mikro and Megalo Neorio, beautiful sandy beaches with pine trees
down to the water’s edge. There are plenty of opportunities for taking
excursions from Poros to the opposite coasts of the Argolid, crossing the
strait by sea taxi or ferryboat. Directly opposite the harbour of Poros is
the Peloponnesian town of Galata, set in the midst of greenery, and further
S is the idyllic Lemonodasos (lit. Lemon Wood). There are fuel and water
supply facilities for boats in Poros harbour. Information, Poros Harbour
Office, tel. (22980) 22.274, (22980) 22.224. In early July Naval Week is
organized, with cultural events and exhibitions associated with the island’s
nautical history
Salamis
(Area 95 sq. km., length of coastline 104km).
Salamis on account of its strategic position in Athens’ “embrace”, was an
“apple of discord” between the Athenians and the Megarians in the historical
period. The most important event in the island’s past was the naval battle
fought in its straits, between the Greek and the Persian fleet during the
Persian Wars (480 BC), in which the invaders suffered an ignominious defeat.
Salamis was also the birthplace of the tragic poet Euripides. The island’s
capital is Salamina or Koulouri. The Salamis Archaeological Museum (tel.
(210) 46.35.372) houses finds from the area. In the Folklore Museum (tel.
(210) 46.57.361) there are local costumes, tools, vessels and other objects.
About 6 km NW of the town is the Phaneromeni Monastery, with rich
wall-paintings, a collection of ecclesiastical treasures, an icon-painting
and a weaving workshop, as well as a hospice. Information is available from
the monastery, tel. (210) 46.81.940.
The earliest archaeological site on the island is at Ambelakia, 4 km SE of
Salamina. The naval battle of Salamis was fought here. Selinia is located 8
km SE of the town. The seaside village of Moulki or Aianteio is 6 km SW of
the town in an area of pine woods. The recently explored Cave of Euripides,
at Peristeria, has not only yielded significant finds but is also the place
where tradition relates that the poet withdrew to write his tragedies. |
