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Corfu
(Area 592 sq. km)
Corfu, the wooded isle of the Phaeacians, Odysseeus’ last stop on his long
journey home to Ithaca, is the best known of the Ionian islands.
It owes its sophistication and charm to the meshing of the different
civilizations that have occupied the island and to the natural beauty with
which it is so abundantly endowed.
On this cosmopolitan island, you’ll be able to combine relaxation with good
times and a full nightlife, for Corfu is an international tourist center,
which can satisfy the demands of the most difficult visitor.
The capital of the island is also called Corfu (Kerklra). It is built on a
promontory that projects into the sea and is separated into a northern and a
southern section. East of the northern part lies the Old Fortress, cut off
from the town by a moat. For centuries all the popular of Corfu lived within
this citadel, which was founded by the Byzantines but greatly expanded and
strengthened by the Venetians.
The town of Corfu is made up of completely dissimilar elements, left over
from different civilizations. It presents an enchanting picture with its
broad streets and spacious squares, the popular Spianada – the town “green”
– contrasting with its narrow back alleys paved with blocks of stone (known
as “Kantounia”), houses with a strong Italian influence, the famous Liston,
a French arcade, traditional Georgian mansions, a Byzantine church, Venetian
monuments, balconies with wrought. iron railings and window grilles.
Kithira
The island of Kithira lies opposite the eastern tip of the Peloponnese, Cape
Malea. Its scenery is unique – rugged and dramatic, while its architecture
is a blend of traditional, Aegean and Venetian elements.
Over the millennia, the winds from the surrounding seas have shaped its
shores into steep rocky cliffs punctuated by deep bays.
History
Kithira has been known since antiquity as the island of Aphrodite.
At the start of the second millennium B.C. it was a Minoan colony and in 424
B.C. it came under the sway of Athens. Over the centuries it knew a
succession of conquerors from the Romans to the Byzantines, Venetians and
Turks, and it was frequently looted by Barbary pirates. The main town was
completely destroyed in 1537 by the notorious Barbarossa. In 1717 in was
rebuilt by the Venetians and in 1864 united with the Greek state.
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Kefalonia
(Area 781 sq. km)
The largest island in the Ionian, Kefalonia is a land of contrasts. Just for
starters don’t miss the view from the castle at Assos. On your, left, spread
out beneath your feet, lies the enchanting turquoise bay of Myrtos renowned
for its afternoon sun and soft white sand. Or you might swim in the crystal
clear water of Poros. You can also go up to the top of Mt. Enos (1,628
meters above sea level). Its slopes are covered with tall, cedar like fir
trees that grow nowhere else in the world. On other parts of the island
you’ll run into groves filled with olive or orange trees and hillsides
studded with grapevines; breathtaking golden beaches and deep coves, rugged
rocky shores or visit famous caves. The cave at Melissani is actually a
partially covered subterranean lake. When the sun is directly overhead, its
rays strike the ultramarine water, shattering into a myriad phantasmagorical
colors. Drogoratl, on the other hand, is known for its unusual stalactites.
In the area of Lassi, 1,5 kilometers from Argostoli, are the famous
Katavothres (swallow-holes), a rare geological phenomenon. Here sea water
enters openings in the rock and “disappears”. Only recently were scientists
able to trace it; they found that it travels northeast through underground
all the way across the island finally to emerge at Melissani, near the
village of Karavomilos, opposite Sami. (In the past water poured in at such
a rate it was used to power two enormous sea mills.) Of the old, immensely
attractive city of Argostoli, the capital, which was destroyed by an
earthquake in 1953, very little remains; one or two houses, the arched
bridge stretching across the lagoon and the obelisk at its center, which
commemorates the date of its construction. During your stay there you could
visit its interesting museums (Archaeological Museum; Folk Art
Museum), its Library and swim at the famous
nearby beaches of Makris and Platis Gialos. Lixouri, Kefalonia’s second
largest town, has a peaceful atmosphere, a lovely 19th century
mansion-museum, and vestiges of the ancient city of Pali. The beaches to the
south are among the best on the island. South of Argostoli near the village
of Domata lies the church of Panaghia with an exceptional carved wooden icon
screen. NE of Domata the Monastery of Aghios Andreas near the village of
Peratata has a wonderful icon collection. Above the monastery looms the
castle of St. George built by the Venetians in 1504. Within its walls there
is a small piazza, the Kanoni, and north of it the ruins of the Catholic
church of St. Nicholas. The view of the fertile valley and its villages
spread out below the castle is splendid. The area of Katelios in the
southeast of the island, has two outstanding beaches, one near the seaside
hamlet of Katelio and the other at Skala. In this area were discovered the
ruins of a 3rd century B.C. building from the height of the Roman era,
perhaps the home of a wealthy Roman businessman, which contains excellent,
well-preserved mosaics. On the east side of the island are Poros, Saml, and
Aghia Efimia with its pebbled beach. Fiskardo, the northernmost harbor on
Kefalonia, has kept its traditional color. Lying opposite and very close to
Ithaca, it is surrounded by a thick cypress glade. On the west side of the
island is Assos, a charming village built astride the isthmus of the
peninsula of the same name, famous for its picturesque castle. The good road
network, which covers the whole island, makes it easy to explore Kefalonia
from one side to the other: its deep blue waters, steep bare cliffs, lush
valleys, picturesque, secluded villages |
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Paxi
(Area 25 sq. km)
Paxi is the smallest of the six main Ionian islands. When you step ashore at
Gaios, the island’s little port, you'll find an exquisite miniature world
just waiting to be discovered. One of the attractions of this island is its
size; it is so tiny (10 km. long and 4 km. wide) that you can easily walk
from one side to the other. At the same time, it is so thick with grapevines
and olive trees that the whole place is like one big garden. Along its
eastern coast, just a stone’s throwaway, are the smaller islands of Panagia,
Aghios Nikolaos, Mongonissi and Kaltsonissi. During your stay on Paxi, you
will find wonderful beaches and translucent waters, perfect for swimming,
snorkeling and fishing. You should not miss taking a trip around the island
in a motor launch, for a look at its spectacular white cliffs, punctuated by
delightful coves and intriguing grottoes. On the east side of the island
sits Gaios, its capital and biggest village. Its charming 19th century
houses, threaded by narrow lanes, lie at the end of a closed “fjord”,
surrounded by trees and shrubs. At the entrance to this picturesque harbor
you can make out the islets of Panagia and Aghios Nikolaos with its Venetian
castle and windmill. Laka is a little seaside settlement with a tiny harbor,
built on a sheltered bay whose coasts are covered with olives and pines. Its
low houses are particularly distinctive, painted in interesting shades of
brown and indigo. The grotto of Ypapanti is only 2 nautical miles from Laka
by motorboat. If you should happen to be in Paxi on the 15th of August,
you’ll want to follow the faithful who gather at the Monastery of Panaghia (Moni
Panaghias). The festivities last all day and all night, winding up in Gaios
with dancing in the main square. Pleasant excursions may be made to Panaghia,
Aghios Nikolaos, Mongonissi and Kaltsionissi. From Paxi it is also possible
to visit Parga on the mainland, a small town with a Venetian fortress and a
wonderful beach, and Andipaxi, a tiny island 3 nautical miles (30 minutes
away) from Gaios. About 120 people live on Andipaxi. Its slopes are
practically covered with grapevines and its beaches are superb. Totally
unspoilt, quiet Andipaxi serves as a refuge for those seeking solitude,
simplicity and serenity
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Ithaca
(Area 96 sq. km)
Throughout the ages Ithaca has been known as the home of Odysseus. For years
Homer’s hero wandered before he finally returned to his island kingdom.
Though he visited beautiful, exotic, far-flung lands, Ithaca never left his
mind for a moment. And even today, once you’ve been to Ithaca, it’s
difficult to forget this small, mountainous island with its captivating
coves that conjure up some earthly paradise. Ithaca is separated from
Cephalonia by a channel some 2 to 4 kilometers wide. The west coast of the
island is steep and almost barren in contrast to the green, gentle shoreline
on the east. The capital and largest settlement is Ithaki or Vathi; its
red-roofed delightful houses set amidst enchanting scenery at the end of the
deep closed bay of Molos. Taking the capital as a starting point, it’s easy
to get to know the island’s landmarks. Three kilometers to the northwest
lies the so-called Cave of the Nymphs (Nimfon Cave). Here according to the
myth, Odysseus hid the gifts bestowed upon him by the Phaeacians who
deposited him upon Ithaca’s shores ten long years after the end of the
Trojan War. Also worth visiting is the medieval Monastery of the Archangels
at Perahori. North of the capital and 600 meters above sea level, the
Kathara Monastery (Moni Katharon) has a unique view of the island from its
bell tower. On the horizon you can make out the mountains of Akarnania, the
Echinades islets, the peaks of Zakinthos, the eastern coast of Cephalonia
and even the entrance to the Gulf of Patras. The bay of Polis to the west is
the site of another cave (Loizos’ cave). This one yielded up shreds on which
were carved inscriptions testifying to the worship of Artemis, Hera and
Athena. Even more interesting, in the cave were also found recently twelve
tripods similar to the other that the Phaeacians were supposed to have given
to Odysseus. Stavros, a village 17 kilometers northwest of Ithaki, is a good
base from which to explore the northern section of the island. About 1
kilometer north of Stavros is Pelikata; excavations on this hillside between
the bays of Polis and Frikes brought to light remains of a small Bronze Age
settlement. The finds unearthed there reinforce the theory that the ancient
city of Ithaca lies somewhere in the vicinity. Kioni and Frikes, typically
Ionian villages, on the northeast coast are unspoilt, wonderful places for a
short excursion or an extended sojourn.
Ithaca offers lovely beaches for bathing, caves for exploring and uncrowned
hamlets where noisy nightlife is unheard of. “When you set out for Ithaca”,
wrote the poet Constantine Kavafis. He was referring to Ithaca as one’s
ultimate destination. Thus, Ithaca, this verdant Ionian island, may become
your own favorite place, a place that draws you back year after year, when
you plan your summer holiday. |
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Lefkada
(Area 303 sq. km)
To get to Lefkada, you don’t need to take a boat. Instead you go by car or
bus, quickly crossing over the narrow channel separating the coast of
Etoloakarnania and the island. It is said that once upon a time Lefkada was
united with mainland Greece. Some say the Leleges, its first inhabitants,
transformed it into an island; others maintain that the Corinthians dug a
trench across the isthmus. Lefkada is a mountainous island, covered with
dense vegetation to the east and south. Its eastern coast slopes gently down
to the sea, which is sheltered from the wind and dotted with thickly wooded
islets. The most famous of these are Skorpios, Madouri and Sparti. In
contrast, the west coast is steep, with a few stunted pine trees and lined
with spectacular stretches of endless golden beach. The capital of the
island is also called Lefkada. A tranquil, picturesque town built on a
natural harbor, it is composed of distinctive, multicolored wooden houses,
whose upper floors are covered with sheet metal. It is from here you’ll set
off – over good roads – to explore the island. Before abandoning the town,
you may wish to visit the castle of Santa Maura, right next to the channel.
It was founded in 1300 by John Orsini, a Frankish knight who held Lefkada as
a fief. If you follow the eastern coast road, passing through villages
bordered on one side by the sea and on the other by lush greenery – villages
like Ligia and Nikiana – you will come to Nidri, one of the most popular
holiday spots on the island. Nidri was the home of the Germanarchaeologist,
Dorpfeld, who maintained that Lefkada was in fact none other than Homer’s
Ithaca. Sights worth seeing in the area are the ruins of the prehistoric
city and some circular graves. Your next stop on your way around the island
is Poros and the lovely pebbled beach of Mikro Yialo. Vasslliki is Lefkada’s
southernmost seaside settlement. Here you can swim from the village’s long,
flat beach or hop aboard a cacique that will take you In 30 minutes to Cape
Lefkata. At Lefkata or Sappho’s Leap, the most southerly cape on the island,
there once stood a shrine to Appolo, famous throughout the ancient world.
Here, too, they say that the poet Sappho took her life, flinging herself
from the white cliffs, a hopeless victim of her unrequited love for Phaona.
Your tour of the island finishes with a visit to Aghios Nikitas, a
traditional, picturesque fishing hamlet on the west coast of Lefkada, and a
stop at the island village of Karia, known for its handmade traditional
embroideries. Both before and after Aghios Nikitas you can take a dip in the
sparkling waters of one of the most beautiful beaches of Lefkada. Its fine
white sand stretches as far as the eye can see.
From Nidri, you can take a short ferryboat ride to Meganissi, 12 nautical
miles southeast of Lefkada. According to historians, Meganissi has been
settled since Homer’s time. It has three villages, sea caves, wonderful
beaches and clean waters. |
Zakynthos
(Area 402 sq. km)
Zakynthos, the southernmost of the Ionian islands, owes its name to the son
of Dardanos, the king of Troy, who according to myth built the first city
here. It is also mentioned in “The Iliad”. All who came to this island fell
under its spell. The Venetians baptized it “the flower of the Orient” (Fior’
di Levante). Others gave it just as evocative names like “earthly paradise”,
and “Perfumed Isle”, while Dionysios Solomos, the father of modern Greek
poetry and a native son, wrote “Zakynthos could make one forget the Elysian
Fields.” No one who has been here can forget the emerald green of its sea,
its pine-studded mountains, its musical people and their hospitality. The
first thing to welcome you, as soon as you step off the ferryboat, is the
town of Zaklnthos. Though it lost all but three of its buildings in the
earthquake of 1953, the town has been meticulously reconstructed and its
former layout has been faithfully preserved. Zakynthos today has pleasantly
arcaded wide streets, spacious squares imposing buildings and cheerful
houses. The Museum of Post-Byzantine Art on Solomos Square contains
treasures salvaged from the island’s historic churches.
On the waterfront, one should visit the churches of Aghios Dionysios, the
island’s patron saint, with its tall campanile, and of Aghios Nikolas tou
Molou, a church out of the Italian Renaissance with, surprisingly, a 17th
century Byzantine belfry. If you walk along the flagstones coastal
promenade, the so-called Strata Marina between the two churches, at dusk,
you’ll get the true flavor of the town. Sometimes it seems as if the whole
population is out enjoying the ritual of the evening stroll.
The street is lined with small cafes and shops selling folk art. Don’t leave
before tasting the famous Zakynthos “mandolato” or nougat; it’s a real
treat. The town is watched over by the Venetian fortress on the hill above.
Only the gate, outer walls and battlements still stand. But from this
vantage point a spectacular view can be had of the harbor, fertile inland
plain and beaches as far as the eye can see. Nearby is another hill, the
Lofos Strani where Solomos Dionysios composed the famous, the father of
modern Greek poetry “Hymn to Liberty”, which became the Greek National
Anthem. Zakynthos is almost triangular in shape, with two green mountainous
promontories extending into the sea to form the huge bay of Laganas. There
are more pine-covered mountains and hills in the north, but the center is
gentle and lush, richly planted with currant vines, olive trees, almonds and
seasonal vegetables. There are dozens of beaches to choose from, sandy and
sheltered with invitingly sparkling water. Flowers of every kind fill every
available space, filling the air with the scent that so enraptured visitors
of old. With a sunny climate most of the year and good roads to facilitate
exploring, Zakynthos lends itself to holidaymaking in spring and fall as
well as summer. Some of the best-known summer resorts are Argassi, Alikes,
Pianos, Tsilivi, Vassilikos, Gerakas and Porto Roma, while Laganas is the
most famous of all. Its long beach and wide range of facilities attract
thousands of tourists from May through September. At Laganas, Vassilikos and
Gerakas, the endangered sea turtle Caretta-caretta also comes to lay her
eggs. Apart from its beaches, Zakynthos has many other wonderful places to
get to know. For example, there’s the village of Anafonitria, with its
fascinating 15th century monastery dedicated to the Virgin. And Maherado,
with its two 14th century churches, the half-ruined Ypapanti and the
sumptuously decorated Aghia Mavra. Or the mountain village of Keri, where
sooner or later everyone goes to admire the sunset and the stupendous view
of the seacaves below. Heading north, don’t miss Volimes or Skinari at the
tip of the island. Volimes has a wonderful Venetian tower and lovely old
churches with frescoes dating to the 12th and 14th centuries, while Skinari
is where the famous Blue Caves are located.
Inside the caves, the refraction of the sun’s rays on the water creates an
unbelievable array of blue and silver tones of a dreamlike beauty.
Further south is the cave of Xingia, where there is a spring of sumptuous
water that bubbles up white, clouding the sea up to 500 meters from show |
